How do you turn an indoor cat into an outdoor cat?
Sunday, February 21st, 2010 at
7:06 pm
They have been indoor cats for roughly 7 years and have had no outside contact.
They have been peeing on our carpets for the past 5 years and we have had to replace the carpet and sub flooring several times. We are searching for solutions to that problem.
Filed under: Cat Furniture
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It’s pretty easy. First you need to grab them by the back of the neck & then throw them out the door & then quickly close it.
It’s probably not a good idea. They have no skills in protecting themselves from predators, cars, etc. I wouldn’t do it.
open the door and set the cat outside…..
put it outside with a nice cozy bed and some food.
easy, kick them out! and y would u keep them inside for 7 years and then decide to kick them out?? that’s wrong
Step 1 – Put the cat outside
Step 2 – Shut the door
that isnt gonna work. wont happen. Cats have to be raised outside. They dont know about predators or to stay out of road. If you care about the cats, you’ll keep them inside. If you don’t bring them to a shelter.
If you were determind, you could use a harness and a leash and get it familiar with the outdoors, but it will take awhile.
They are much safer inside away from predators and being run down by cars. Besides there are other cats out there that carry infections such as cat flu and can infect your cat. Also letting your cat out after 7 years it may have more of a chance of being killed/injured than another cat that has lived outside it’s whole life. I think you need to address the issue of the cats peeing inside your home – are they neutered as if they are male they could be spraying inside this is stopped by neutering. They may have weak bladders? Or train them to use litter trays.
does your sink have one of those squirt nozzles on it. If it does open the outside doors and close all the other doors and squirt the cat. If no nozzle pour a bucket of water on it. it will become and outside cat very quickly. For added fun, if you have a storm door that is all glass open the regular door and leave the storm door shut, then apply the water. Laugh as the cat runs into the glass. There was a cat that lived at the house I lived that would sit inside by the glass storm door. When I was outside I would squirt the hose at the glass door and it would jump and take off running while it was in the air and then hit the ground with its legs moving. I never got tired of that.
1st things first: Get a catflap. Make sure they are fixed but not declawed. Then you only have two problems really:
SAFETY & making the transition smooth
Take off their collars and get microchips instead if you want people to be able to contact you if your cat ran away and they found it. Your cat could be hung to death if their collar got caught on a branch when climbing trees.
Make sure they know how to use the catflap by helping them through it a few times.
The first week, supervise them when they’re out. Only let them out if you can watch them. If they wander off, call them back to you or pick them up and put the in the middle of the garden again. If you’re on a busy road, spray them with water every time they come near the road. Then leave the water sprayer just on the pavement, by your driveway, so they will notice the water sprayer thingy and avoid it (in other words, they wont go near the road). In theory this should work but in practice its not always successful.
Once they know the garden/neighbourhood, let them out without really supervising them much BUT make sure they come in in the evening. I suggest a catflap that has 4 modes (can go in or out, can only go in, can only go out, locked) then at like 5 you can set it to can only go in and lock it completely for the night (so strays dont come in…it happens) once you know they are inside. They will not really be accustomed to the night animals that could hurt them, like the common urban fox. After they are accustomed to the garden/neighbourhood and foxes and stuff, just let them out whenever they want. You may have to alter their feeding times to fit when they come in, or, use the food to your advantage and put the food out when you want them to come in (if you shake the bag/can of food and make noises that usually makes them come running cos they know they are about to be fed, right outside the door they will probably come in, if they’re not too far).
LITTER TRAINING
Its easy. Hopefully, your cats already know how to use the litter box and bury their poop and stuff. If so, the hardest is over. (Though I am seriously concerned that even 7 years plus you still havent totally litter trained your cats. When they pee you’re supposed to put them in the litterbox so they get the idea. If you see them about to pee put them in the litterbox, etc etc, shouldn’t take too long, only took my kitten 2 months to totally litter train her.) Then you just put the litter box outside, and show them that its outside (still keep it close to the house). When they use it there instead, put it on a soily patch and use soil instead of litter. Show them. Eventually just take away the litterbox and they will go in the soil.
As a last note, let me point out that there are downsides to having an outdoor cat –
*On average, they live a shorter live (more prone to diseases, could be run over, etc etc….even though they are less likely to become obese)
*More of a chance to run away, so treat your kitty nice cause he can run away and live with the neighbours any time he wants
*Will bring in mice and birds (though at 7 years plus, quite unlikely)
But on the whole outdoor cats live a much happier, freer life and its nice to know that even though they could run away and live with the neighbours or just eat mice and birds, they still come back every single night to keep your feet warm whilst you sleep. =]
umm…keep them as indoor cats!!!!!
If they seem happy as indoor cats, please for the love of god do not introduce them to the outside world! Please, there are too many things that could happen to them outside. There are too many cruel people in the world. Just several houses down from mine a group of teenagers shot my neighbor’s 3 month old kitten with a bb gun. The kitten passed away at the hospital. My other neighbor’s cat is an outdoor cat and he has a large slit on each ear from getting in fights with other cats. If your cats show no interest in the outdoors, that is a blessing.
i also have had cats that were inside cats all i did was put in a cat flap or door whichever that way when they are in or outside they can come and go but also put dried bickies out for cat to eat and also put butter on there feet when outside just once let them walk around and put there scent outside .
do start of slow with the outside as they will be scared at first.
good luck.
When ur cat pees on the floor wash in with eucalyptus… Put the cat on the litter tray and make sure u clean the litter tray everyday or two… also if you want out door cats try building an enclosure in an area that gets sun, they will need a tree or branch to climb and some where to go to the toilet, oh and some thing to play with.
I personally wouldn’t do it… cats that have been outside their whole lives have experienced predators, finding prey, constant temperature changes and other natural dangers and are more aware of the potential dangers they face, which gives them a decent chance of survival. If the cats were younger it might be possible, but an older cat will probably have a hard time adjusting, especially if they have been indoors their whole life pampered and have never shown any interest in going outside.
An alternative to putting them outside would be to rehome them with someone who can keep them indoors. If this is impossible, you might try keeping them in an outside enclosure to try and let them gradually adjust, and offer a place that they can hide (such as a garage, shed or under a porch). It would be a good idea to get them spayed or neutered (if they are not already) and get them up-to-date on their shots before putting them out.
Once they are out, you might have a problem with them trying to get back in. My sister tried this with a cat that was a year old and he ripped her screens out trying to get back into the house. He would also try to dart in the door whenever they would go in or out so she had to rehome him. Good Luck!
Dont let your cat outside….Better inside and fat than outside and flat.!!!!!!!!!!!!
So, are these cats declawed? Have you ever taken them to the vet to find out if they had Urinary Tract Infections which would precipitate the urinating outside the box?
And now when they are no longer convenient, you will throw them outside to fend for themselves. You probably already know that shelters won’t take them, since it’s been going on for YEARS, there is NO CHANCE that the behavior can be changed.
Litterbox issues are the SINGLE biggest reason cats are given up or euthanized.
If they are declawed, they CANNOT be made outside cats. You will have to euthanize them.
Yeah, that may be a blunt, callous answer, but you took the cats in. And now you want to throw them out. You get NO sympathy here. If you can’t deal with the cats, euthanize them. This is YOUR problem. Don’t make it someone else’s.
Please don’t let them outside! Cats that live indoors live longer, healthier lives. Statistically, the life span of an indoor cat averages 12 to 14 years, whereas it is only about four years for the outdoor cat. More than 1 million outdoor cats are killed each year by dogs, traffic, and exposure to disease. In the long run, keeping your cat indoors will also save you money in vet bills.
There are many risks that come with letting your cats roam free outside:
- They have a much higher chance of catching diseases and other illnesses such as: Feline Leukemia (FeLV), Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP), Feline Herpes Virus (Rhinotracheitis), Feline Distemper, Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV), rabies, tapeworm, ringworm, heart worm, hypothermia and urinary tract infection
- Ingesting chemicals or poisons such as pesticides, home garden products and car/motor products
- Getting fleas or ticks
- Injury/death due to dangerous traffic
- Eating poisonous spiders, insects or plants
- Injury/death due to cruel humans, hunters or neighbors
- Attacks from dogs, other cats or wild animals
- Other accidental injuries
- Getting lost or stolen
The best thing to do FIRST is get them fixed.
There are so many possible reasons for this it’s hard to cover them all. The first reason you need to rule out is a bladder/urinary tract infection. You will need to take kitty to the vet to get checked out. Has the litter box been cleaned properly? Have you moved it to a different location? Have you recently changed anything such as brand of litter, litter box or food? Have you used any new disinfectants in the box? Has someone new come into your house that s/he didn’t seem to like? Any new pets? Even new carpets or furniture can cause this.
Here are some suggestions to your litter box problems:
- Provide a box for each cat
- Provide constant access to a box
- Go back to previously used brand of litter and/or
- Discontinue new disinfectant
- Move box to where it was previously used
- Eliminate new or frightening noise near litter box
- Move food and water away from litter box
- If cat is only going in one spot, put the litter box at the exact location and gradually move it back to where you want it at the rate of one foot per day (OR you can simply place a bowl of food there, because cats do not like to go where they eat)
- If there are several places, try putting dishes of cat food in those areas to discourage further elimination there
- Experiment with different textures of litter (cats prefer sandy litter)
- Use a covered litter box for cats that stand in box but eliminate outside of it
- Keep in mind that some cats are rather picky, and prefer to have two separate boxes (one to pee in and one to poop in)
Problems arise when your cat doesn’t like or develops an aversion to the litter box that you have provided. Let’s be fair here. There is absolutely no reason to expect every cat to like the same material, or even for one cat to prefer the same material over an entire life span. First lesson learned: You did not train your cat to use a litter box. At best, you offered the cat something recognizable as litter material. If your cat is having litter box problems then you will need to figure out how to make the litter box appealing to the cat. Here are a few options:
1) Pain or illness can cause a cat to stop using the litter box. Cats are very adept at hiding illness, so if your cat is having litter box problems then the first thing you need to do is take the cat to a vet for a medical exam.
2) If you aren’t scooping the waste out of the litter every day then you need to start and start now.
3) Perfumes or other odors can drive your cat away from the litter box. Scented litters are unacceptable to many cats, and the leftover scent from a cleaning product could also be a problem. Get rid of the perfumes, and scrub those cleaners away before giving the box back to the cat. Remember that cats have an acute sense of smell.
4) Your cat may feel vulnerable when in the litter box. Is it in a noisy location (such as next to the washing machine)? Is it secure from little marauders like dogs and children, or even other cats? If the box is not semi-private, move it to a better location.
5) Remember those preferences that we talked about earlier. You may need to offer several different types of litter before finding the right one. Strange but true, some cats will not use the same box for urine and feces, in which case you’ll have to provide two boxes. The type of box could also be a problem. If the box has a cover, try removing it.
6) Anxiety can lead to litter box lapses. Did some event scare your cat? This could be anything from a new couch to a new cat or even a new person in the house. If you suspect anxiety, confine the cat to a safe and secure place (maybe a bed room) until the anxiety has passed. Cats seem to hang on to their emotions, so the anxiety could last much longer than the actual event. No need to rush, leave that safe haven available to the cat for as long as possible.
7) If you have multiple cats, chances are you’ll need multiple boxes, maybe even with different materials in them.
There is one more important distinction that you’ll need to make. Is the cat refusing to use the litter box, or is the cat spraying? Spraying is a territorial behavior and has nothing to do with disliking the box. For more information on litter box problems or spraying, consult with a trained behaviorist.
Correcting the Problem
The key to solving elimination problems is to make the litter box more attractive, and the area where the cat is soiling instead, unattractive. Sometimes, just cleaning the litter box more frequently or changing its location will correct the problem. Other times, you may need to experiment with different combinations of location and kitty litter to find a solution. You may even want to offer your cat the choice of several different boxes, each with different kinds of litter, to see which he or she prefers. At the same time, you must break the cat’s habit of soiling in the new location. Be sure to clean the soiled area thoroughly with a pet odor remover to get rid of any urine scent — or your cat may be attracted back to the same spot. It’s important to keep the cat away from the area. Try covering the spot with carpet runner, prickly side up, or use a device that delivers a harmless static shock or that produces a loud noise when the cat comes near, to help redirect kitty to his litter box. Adding a room deodorizer with a scent the cat finds offensive – such as a strong citrus or floral – can also keep the cat away from the area.
When to See the Vet
If your cat continues to eliminate outside of the litter box, a trip to the vet is in order to check for health problems. No behavior techniques will help a cat with a problem that requires the attention of a veterinarian.
Urinary tract infections are a common cause of litter box problems, which your pet’s doctor can diagnose and treat. A urinalysis can also rule out diabetes. Other conditions that may affect elimination behavior include arthritis – which makes is painful to climb in and out of the box – and constipation.
Always scoop litter boxes at LEAST once a day, and change the litter at least once a week. When cleaning the box, use a mild detergent and finish by rinsing very thoroughly. Never use strong-smelling pine cleansers or ammonia. If you want to disinfect the box with bleach, dilute it with water first. Rinsing the box with boiling water is also effective. With covered cat boxes, the smell can be worse, especially with high humidity, so you must be willing to clean it more.
Odor removing tips:
Remember, a cat’s sense of smell is fourteen times stronger than that of a human. This is why it is so important for you to thoroughly clean the urine spots. You cat probably still smells the urine in the carpet, and this can make them want to “re-mark” that spot over and over.
To remove the smell of urine from just about anything, first clean it with some sort of soap or kitchen cleaner. Then clean it with lemon juice. If you don’t like the smell of lemon juice follow it up with a little bit of vanilla extract. One of the most effective formulas I’ve found for removing ANY odor was from Popular Science Magazine. Mix 1 quart of Hydrogen Peroxide, with 1/4 cup of Baking Soda, and one tablespoon of liquid dishwashing soap. Saturate the affected area, rinse thoroughly with clean water, and the smell is gone. This is non-toxic and safe for your animals and children, and those with allergies. This is especially helpful for removing skunk odor from your outdoor animals. As always, test a small portion of fabric for color fastness, before treating a large area.
What Won’t Work… There are many home remedies for treating pet stains and odors, and let me stress that most of them are not too bad as far as removing odors for humans’ noses. Vinegar, ammonia, baking soda, laundry detergents, lemon juice, fabric softeners, and commercial strength pet stain removers are all great for removing the odors that humans can smell. However; you will need more to remove the odor for your cat’s nose. An enzymatic cleaner is the best answer, but it is slow and may take more than one application, (Nature’s Miracle is one of them). The Hydrogen Peroxide/Baking Soda combo is fast, but can alter the colors of some fabrics. In the end, you must decide which application is best for your situation.
Even if you clean a pet stain with soap and water certain micro-organisms remain behind and your pet can smell them. Enzymatic Cleaners are designed to completely eliminate the source of the odor by using enzymes to eat away the micro-organisms that cause the odor. The one drawback to these cleaners is that they are slow; it could take several weeks fo